Requirements:

2 players: You. A game opponent.

minimum of 5 cards in each player's inventory.

minimum of 5 cards in each player's inventory.

Getting Cards:

-Find them hidden in towns and dungeons.

-Get characters to give them to you. (rare)

-Win them in card battles.

-Get them at the end of a random encounter. (crap cards)

-Buy Them. (crap cards)

As a side note, the arrows and stats of these cards is not determined until you actually own it. So for cards you find in towns and dungeons, or obtain from other characters, you can reset the game until the card has the stats you desire. This works on all cards, even rare ones - so this can help you in getting that top collector level.

This does not really matter anyhow, due to the fact that the more rounds a specific card is used in a game that you win, the higher its stats will become.

-Get characters to give them to you. (rare)

-Win them in card battles.

-Get them at the end of a random encounter. (crap cards)

-Buy Them. (crap cards)

As a side note, the arrows and stats of these cards is not determined until you actually own it. So for cards you find in towns and dungeons, or obtain from other characters, you can reset the game until the card has the stats you desire. This works on all cards, even rare ones - so this can help you in getting that top collector level.

This does not really matter anyhow, due to the fact that the more rounds a specific card is used in a game that you win, the higher its stats will become.

To Play:

Walk up to a character, and press 'square' to initiate a card game.
Not everyone plays, but many do. Once the card game has been
initiated, pick five cards and confirm them as your final choice. Once
you've done this, the game begins.

The Game:

The game grid looks like this:

########################### #-------------------------# #| | | | |# #| | | | |# #| | | | |# #-------------------------# #| | | | |# #| | | | |# #| | | | |# #-------------------------# #| | | | |# #| | | | |# #| | | | |# #-------------------------# #| | | | |# #| | | | |# #| | | | |# #-------------------------# ###########################

This game grid may have anywhere from 0-6 random spaces blocked off
at the beginning of the game, restricting where cards can be placed.
A coin is tossed to determine who starts the game. Whoever starts
must place a card in one of the grid spaces, and the flow of the
game turns to the second player.

Card Holding:

Cards, being collectible, are given numbers. There are 100 cards in
the game, and you can only have 100 with you at any one time. So,
if you really wanted to be a master player, you can only have one of
each card. It is not as hard to acquire all 100 as it may seem.

Card Stats:

Cards will have a few stats below the picture. Here's what they mean:

P : the power of the card in hexadecimal.

T : the card type, P, M, X, or A.

D : the card's physical defense in hexadecimal.

M : the card's magical defense in hexadecimal.

Example: 1P40

What is hexadecimal, you ask? Hexadecimal is the numbers represented from 0-15 by letters and numbers. So 0 is 0, and 15 is F. This means the strongest card in the game would be FAFF, since A is the strongest card type.

Here's the confusing part. While the card's stats are represented in hex, those stats represent another number entirely. Here's a chart.

P : the power of the card in hexadecimal.

T : the card type, P, M, X, or A.

D : the card's physical defense in hexadecimal.

M : the card's magical defense in hexadecimal.

Example: 1P40

What is hexadecimal, you ask? Hexadecimal is the numbers represented from 0-15 by letters and numbers. So 0 is 0, and 15 is F. This means the strongest card in the game would be FAFF, since A is the strongest card type.

Here's the confusing part. While the card's stats are represented in hex, those stats represent another number entirely. Here's a chart.

Hex | Stat | Min | Max ------------------------- 0F | 0 | 000 | 015 1F | 1 | 016 | 031 2F | 2 | 032 | 047 3F | 3 | 048 | 063 4F | 4 | 064 | 079 5F | 5 | 080 | 095 6F | 6 | 096 | 111 7F | 7 | 112 | 127 8F | 8 | 128 | 143 9F | 9 | 144 | 159 AF | A | 160 | 175 BF | B | 176 | 191 CF | C | 192 | 207 DF | D | 208 | 223 EF | E | 224 | 239 FF | F | 240 | 255

Why the "Hex" column? Notice how the first number in the hex
column matches the number in the stat column? That's how hexadecimal
works. For a two digit hex number, you take the first number,
multiply by 16 and add the value of the second number. So 6F is
6*16+15 = 111. The minimum value would be 60 or 6*16+0=96.

There is more detail of the card letter/numbering further below.

There is more detail of the card letter/numbering further below.

Card Arrows:

Each card will usually have a set of arrows in any of 8 directions.

A sample card with all directions below:

**Here are a few cases where the arrows will not do anything:**

-The first card played obviously can not affect other cards.

-A card is played next to another card, but has no arrows pointing to the opposing card.

-A card is already on the board with an arrow pointing to a square. A new card is placed in that square, but the new card doesn't have an arrow pointing to the first card.

Basically, this means that nothing will happen unless the card that is played has an arrow pointing to another card.

A sample card with all directions below:

_______ |\ | /| |- -| |/ | \| -------

-The first card played obviously can not affect other cards.

-A card is played next to another card, but has no arrows pointing to the opposing card.

-A card is already on the board with an arrow pointing to a square. A new card is placed in that square, but the new card doesn't have an arrow pointing to the first card.

Basically, this means that nothing will happen unless the card that is played has an arrow pointing to another card.

card 1 | card 2 _____________ |\ | /| /| |- -| -| |/ | \| \| -------------

Card two was placed second, so nothing happened. The fifth
possibility is that the card placed in the grad has an arrow
pointing to the adjacent card.

card 1 | card 2 _____________ |\ | | /| |- |- -| |/ | | \| -------------

The player that placed card two now owns card one. These ownerships
can change through the game, and whoever ends up owning the most
cards at the end of the game wins. Cards may have *no* arrows, and
these are discussed in the "combos" section.

Card Battles:

There is one final possibility remaining. If a card is placed next
to another card, and they both have arrows pointing at each other,
a battle ensues.

card 1 | card 2 _____________ |\ | | | -|- -| |/ | | \| -------------

The above placement would result in a card battle. Each battle has
three phases where different numbers are displayed.

Phase 1:

Each card has a power as discussed previously. This value falls between the min and max listed in the table. Each card also has a defense fitting the the above chart.

Example : 4P22 attacks 1M01

The first number that appears on card A is its attack power, say 70 (4 = between 64 and 79). Card A is a physical card, and card B has 0 physical defense, so the first number to appear on card B is its defense, say 7 (0 = between 0 and 16).

Phase 2:

Next, the computer rolls a number between 0 and the number shown in phase 1. This will be the *actual* attack or defense. Let's say it rolls a 66 for card A, and 1 for card B.

Phase 3:

The number rolled in phase 2 is subtracted from the number in phase 1. This guarantees that the number will be positive, and the highest number wins. So:

Card A: 70 - 66 : 4

Card B: 7 - 1 : 6

There are a few things this should tell you:

-Higher rolls are BAD. You want low rolls so less is subtracted from the total number.

-A weak card can defeat a strong card if the roll is in its favor, look at how the 1M01 defended itself against a 4P22.

If you want to know how likely a card is to win a battle, here's the basic formula:

Phase 1:

Each card has a power as discussed previously. This value falls between the min and max listed in the table. Each card also has a defense fitting the the above chart.

Example : 4P22 attacks 1M01

The first number that appears on card A is its attack power, say 70 (4 = between 64 and 79). Card A is a physical card, and card B has 0 physical defense, so the first number to appear on card B is its defense, say 7 (0 = between 0 and 16).

Phase 2:

Next, the computer rolls a number between 0 and the number shown in phase 1. This will be the *actual* attack or defense. Let's say it rolls a 66 for card A, and 1 for card B.

Phase 3:

The number rolled in phase 2 is subtracted from the number in phase 1. This guarantees that the number will be positive, and the highest number wins. So:

Card A: 70 - 66 : 4

Card B: 7 - 1 : 6

There are a few things this should tell you:

-Higher rolls are BAD. You want low rolls so less is subtracted from the total number.

-A weak card can defeat a strong card if the roll is in its favor, look at how the 1M01 defended itself against a 4P22.

If you want to know how likely a card is to win a battle, here's the basic formula:

100 * Card B defense 100 - -------------------- Card A attack

So in our example, you have:

100 * 7 700 100 - ------- = 100 - --- = 100 - 10 = 90% 70 70

So in our example, card A will win the battle 90% of the time. But
in the example of the battle, it lost because of a bad roll; that's
the 10% it loses.

But, since you may not know attack/defense values right away, you can get a basic idea. Using our example again, take the maximum attack card A could have (79) and the lowest defense card B can have (0) and use our equation. The result is 100%. Now, take the minimum attack card A can have (64) and the maximum defense card B can have (15) and use our equation. The result is 76.6%.

So, in our example, if you don't know the values of the cards fighting it out, card A will have a 77-100% chance of beating card B if it is attacking.

If you played card A, good job. You would have won the card battle, but you had a 10% chance of losing, and lost. Your opponent now controls both cards. If you had won, you'd control both cards.

But, since you may not know attack/defense values right away, you can get a basic idea. Using our example again, take the maximum attack card A could have (79) and the lowest defense card B can have (0) and use our equation. The result is 100%. Now, take the minimum attack card A can have (64) and the maximum defense card B can have (15) and use our equation. The result is 76.6%.

So, in our example, if you don't know the values of the cards fighting it out, card A will have a 77-100% chance of beating card B if it is attacking.

If you played card A, good job. You would have won the card battle, but you had a 10% chance of losing, and lost. Your opponent now controls both cards. If you had won, you'd control both cards.

Card Combos:

Sometimes a card that loses a battle may also point to other cards.
This is a very dangerous situation, and can lead to those cards
being lost as well. For instance, let's assume player 1 owns
cards one and two, player two puts down card three.

1 | 2 | 3 ___________________ |\ | | | | -|- -|- | |/ | | \| | -------------------

We'll assume card three is really powerful, and wipes out card two.
Player 2 now owns all three cards, because the losing card had an
arrow pointing to card one. Avoid this at all costs! A properly
placed combo can flip up to eight other cards on a full board.
Normally cards with a lot of arrows are good due to their great
defense abilities, but the potential for combos is dire. We'll talk
about how to fix this problem later.

Some of you may have encountered cards with no arrows on them, and rightly wonder what they're good for. They're good for one and only one thing so far as I have seen and heard: sheer numbers. These cards have no combo power, are completely defenseless, and are very rare. But keep in mind that if played last, you have no fear of setting off combos where you may lose cards. They're a completely safe play if all you need to do is win one more card to win the card game. They also make wonderful combo fodder.

Some of you may have encountered cards with no arrows on them, and rightly wonder what they're good for. They're good for one and only one thing so far as I have seen and heard: sheer numbers. These cards have no combo power, are completely defenseless, and are very rare. But keep in mind that if played last, you have no fear of setting off combos where you may lose cards. They're a completely safe play if all you need to do is win one more card to win the card game. They also make wonderful combo fodder.

Card Winning:

Whoever controls the most cards when all cards are on the board wins
the game. After winning, the winner gets to pick a card from the
loser's deck, but only a card that was flipped during the course of
the game. If all of the cards are flipped to one player or another,
the game is called "perfect", and they get to keep all of their
opponent's cards. Good if you win, really bad if you lose.

Card Point System:

As you play through the game, you'll win points. How these points are
awarded, however seems to be a bit of a complexity. Points are awarded
not by your win/loss ratio as it would seem, but on the cards you own
and how their arrows are arranged. Here's a quick explanation.

- One Unique Card : 15 points - Unique card, non-unique arrows : 10 points - Extra cards : 5 points per card - Extra cards, non-unique arrows : 0 points per card - X card : 1 bonus point - A card : 2 bonus points

So, if you have one "A" card, and it has no arrows the same as any other
card, you'll have 17 points for that card. Logic would dictate that
in order to reach the top collector level, you'd need all 100 of your
cards to fit this criteria for a maximum of 1700 points. Ouch.

So far as arrow configurations are concerned, there are more than a hundred, here's how they're broken down:

So far as arrow configurations are concerned, there are more than a hundred, here's how they're broken down:

Arrows | combinations ----------------------------- 0 | 1 1 | 8 2 | 28 3 | 56 4 | 70 5 | 56 6 | 28 7 | 8 8 | 1 ----------------------------- Total | 256

So, you have a total of 256 total arrow combinations, and you only
need 100. Also keep in mind that 163 of those have 4 arrows or more,
so you don't need to feel defenseless.

That still doesn't detract from the fact you'll have to have 100 "A" level cards, each with a different arrow configuration to reach the top collector level, but everything is worth effort right?

That still doesn't detract from the fact you'll have to have 100 "A" level cards, each with a different arrow configuration to reach the top collector level, but everything is worth effort right?

Card Collector's Levels:

The game keeps track of all wins, losses, and draws, but they don't
mean anything to your collector level. Your collector level is
determined by the total value of all of your cards as explained above.
This may seem unfair, but it's how things work. Collector level is
awarded by point values, as shows in this table:

Points | Level | Points | Level --------------------------- -=- --------------------------- 0 - 299 : Beginner -=- 1350 - 1359 : Champion 300 - 399 : Novice -=- 1360 - 1369 : Analyst 400 - 499 : Player -=- 1370 - 1379 : General 500 - 599 : Senior -=- 1380 - 1389 : Expert 600 - 699 : Fan -=- 1390 - 1399 : Shark 700 - 799 : Leader -=- 1400 - 1449 : Specialist 800 - 899 : Coach -=- 1450 - 1474 : Elder 900 - 999 : Advisor -=- 1475 - 1499 : Dominator 1000 - 1099 : Director -=- 1500 - 1549 : Maestro 1100 - 1199 : Dealer -=- 1550 - 1599 : King 1200 - 1249 : Trader -=- 1600 - 1649 : Wizard 1250 - 1299 : Commander -=- 1650 - 1679 : Authority 1300 - 1319 : Doctor -=- 1680 - 1689 : Emperor 1320 - 1329 : Professor -=- 1690 - 1697 : Pro 1330 - 1339 : Veteran -=- 1698 - : Master 1340 - 1349 : Freak -=- --------------------------- -=- ---------------------------

What, there is no 1700?

What happens at 1700, you ask? Under your collector points where Master was once written it now says,*superimposed over
everything*, "Would you like to discard?'". So, after one hundred
hours of playing this game you are rewarded with god forsaken glitch.

What happens at 1700, you ask? Under your collector points where Master was once written it now says,

Card Power:

Each card will have a set stats, arranged to look like: 0P00.
The first number is the card's attack power in hexadecimal. Refer
to "Battles" for how this works.

Cards that defeat other cards in many battles, or flip many cards eventually get stronger. So a 0P00 that is used often will make it to a 1P00. These values have maximums. I really dont care what the maximums are, and can see no logical reason why anyone would spend so much time figuring out what any card's maximum is, since you gain absolutely nothing by playing cards other than to add hours to your total game time, and to waste your time you could have spent finishing the game and moving on to another badass squaresoft game. Thus, the card maximums are not posted on here.

Cards that defeat other cards in many battles, or flip many cards eventually get stronger. So a 0P00 that is used often will make it to a 1P00. These values have maximums. I really dont care what the maximums are, and can see no logical reason why anyone would spend so much time figuring out what any card's maximum is, since you gain absolutely nothing by playing cards other than to add hours to your total game time, and to waste your time you could have spent finishing the game and moving on to another badass squaresoft game. Thus, the card maximums are not posted on here.

Card Defense:

Cards have two types of defense, physical and magical. Like power,
defense is listed in hexadecimal. If a card is classified as
0P12, 1 is the physical defense, and 2 is the magical defense.

Like Power, defense can increase if a card defends attack often enough. So a 0P00 can become a 0P01 or a 0P10 depending on whether it defended many physical or magical attacks.

Like Power, defense can increase if a card defends attack often enough. So a 0P00 can become a 0P01 or a 0P10 depending on whether it defended many physical or magical attacks.

Physical Cards:

You probably noticed that I've been listing my examples as 0P00 or
some variation. What I was actually assuming is that the cards in
my examples are physical cards. Hence they do physical damage
in their attacks. A card with "P" in the middle of its stats is a
physical card.

Like mentioned above, physical abilities are not based on the number in the attack power alone. A 1P00 card can still lose to a 0P00 card if the 0P00 card gets a better roll. Generally, cards with higher card numbers are stronger, but you can't count on that.

Like mentioned above, physical abilities are not based on the number in the attack power alone. A 1P00 card can still lose to a 0P00 card if the 0P00 card gets a better roll. Generally, cards with higher card numbers are stronger, but you can't count on that.

Magic Cards:

Cards with an "M" in their stats are magic cards. They deal their
damage through some kind of magic. Unfortunately, most magic cards
will be horribly slaughtered by a physical card. Hence it's essential
to have a good balance of each in those chosen for the game. On the
other hand, a strong magic card will liquefy a physical card with low
magic resistance. Beware!

Power Cards:

Next are power cards. These can exist in any of the card numbers, and
are denoted by an "X" in the card stats. Most often, you'll have
a monster you have many multiples of, and maybe only one of them is
a power card. These can be obtained in a couple of ways:

-Win them.

-Use a normal card until it turns into one.

Power cards seem excessive at first. They appear to have higher stats compared to the other cards you may have in your inventory. But how do they work?

-Win them.

-Use a normal card until it turns into one.

Power cards seem excessive at first. They appear to have higher stats compared to the other cards you may have in your inventory. But how do they work?

Defending card | Actual Defense ------------------------------------- 0P10 | 0 1M91 | 1 9M19 | 1

See a pattern here? If you play a power card, the lowest of the
defender's defense powers will determine the type of attack your card
uses. Strong physical defense? Use a magical attack. Strong magical
defense? Use a physical attack.

As you can imagine, taking a power card can be difficult. But there are a few ways to do so.

-Take the card on an unprotected corner.

-Use a powerful card that will overwhelm power card defenses.

-Use a card with high defense stats.

Three may not make much sense, but it works. Remember, power cards only gain an upper hand when defense values of the other card are low. A card with 0P9A stats would most likely demolish a power card that was 2X32.

At least at the beginning of the game, disks one and two perhaps, save them for the last card you play if at all possible. They can swiftly turn the tide of battle, and work wonders when used in combos.

As you can imagine, taking a power card can be difficult. But there are a few ways to do so.

-Take the card on an unprotected corner.

-Use a powerful card that will overwhelm power card defenses.

-Use a card with high defense stats.

Three may not make much sense, but it works. Remember, power cards only gain an upper hand when defense values of the other card are low. A card with 0P9A stats would most likely demolish a power card that was 2X32.

At least at the beginning of the game, disks one and two perhaps, save them for the last card you play if at all possible. They can swiftly turn the tide of battle, and work wonders when used in combos.

Advanced Cards:

There is one more type of card that has a huge advantage over all other
cards. This is one step above X cards, and instead identifies itself
with an A. 1A12 for example. You can get them a couple of ways.

-Win them.

-Use an X card until it turns into one.

So what are these wondrous cards, and how do they work? Like X cards, they take the lowest of the defense values, but to add a little spice to the mix, they also throw in the attack power. For example:

-Win them.

-Use an X card until it turns into one.

So what are these wondrous cards, and how do they work? Like X cards, they take the lowest of the defense values, but to add a little spice to the mix, they also throw in the attack power. For example:

Defending card | Actual Defense ------------------------------------- 0P12 | 0 9M09 | 0 3P9A | 3

Yes, that's right. The lowest number in all of the stats is used
as the card's defense. I don't think I have to tell you how horrible
this can be. But wait, this isn't all! Take a look at the following:

Attacking "A" card | Actual Attack ------------------------------------- 0P12 | 2 9M09 | 9 3P9A | A

Yes, you see right. Not only does the defending card have a very
low defense, but the "A" card uses the highest number on the card
as the attack. Now an "A" level Genji card doesn't look so useless
as it did before, does it?

These are more rare than power cards since they are upgraded from power cards. Taking these cards can really only be done one of two ways.

-Take the card on an unprotected corner.

-Use a card with higher stats in all aspects.

If you want to take a 2A33, you'll need at least a 3P33 for equal footing, probably higher to be on the safe side. If the computer plays one of these cards, take it! Do what ever you can to make that card yours. If you don't get it the first time, rematch until you do. These cards will most definitely complete your arsenal.

These are more rare than power cards since they are upgraded from power cards. Taking these cards can really only be done one of two ways.

-Take the card on an unprotected corner.

-Use a card with higher stats in all aspects.

If you want to take a 2A33, you'll need at least a 3P33 for equal footing, probably higher to be on the safe side. If the computer plays one of these cards, take it! Do what ever you can to make that card yours. If you don't get it the first time, rematch until you do. These cards will most definitely complete your arsenal.

Card List:

To view a list of all the types of cards and where to
find them, check out the 'Cards' section on this site.